Pork, it's what's for dinner (lunch, breakfast…)

Not surprisingly, pork is the Official White Meat of the Southern Foodways Alliance’s annual symposium in Oxford, Miss., from which I just returned. Pork, the southern foodways pork from david chang of momofukufood of the South. Participants ate pork in the form of heavenly Asian-style slow-roasted pork shoulder created by David Chang, chef of Momofuku in New York That lunch included a salad with thinly sliced ham and dusted with a finely ground bacony powder, and kimchi brussels sprouts topped with peanuts. We ate pork in the form of New Orleans hot sausage from Susan Spicer, chef of Bayona in New Orleans. And in catfish fritters with andouille from Duane Nutter, chef of One Flew South in Atlanta. The only thing missing was bacon-flavored beer – although Durham’s Fullsteam Brewing offered sweet potato and scuppernong brews.

The event focused on the relationship between music and food, mostly talking about the blues. So there was plenty of good party music in between the eating and lectur-izing. Yes, lecturizing. We do like to look erudite, at least.

If a herd of angry porkers had stampeded the events, the Triangle restaurant scene would’ve taken a big hit. Attendees included chefs Bill Smith of Crook’s Corner in Chapel Hill, Ben and Karen Barker of Magnolia Grill in Durham, and Ashley Christensen of Poole’s Diner in Raleigh, plus bakers April McGreger of Farmer’s Daughter in Chapel Hill and Phoebe Lawless of Scratch Baking in Durham, who provided baked doughnut muffins for breakfast (pork-free, but still good).


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  • Comment from Varmint

    Ah, but don’t forget Phoebe also provided the livermush sandwiches for that breakfast. See, they’d never consider having a pork-free meal!

  • Great write-up!

    Next year I’ll be sure to bring Hogwash, our hickory-smoked porter. Chris and I brought it last year; I thought about providing it this year but didn’t think a smoky beer would go well with fried catfish.

    Cheers,
    Sean from Fullsteam

  • Comment from Debbie

    Ah, you are correct about the livermush, Varmint. And let me not forget the inspiring Chitlin Ballet on the final day. I had a brief conversation with Roger Johnson, director of development for Ballet Memphis, which performed the piece. He said the group has incorporated food themes into ballets for several years, bringing in local chefs to participate. Doing that attracts a different audience from the typical ballet. Could work here in Raleigh?

    Sean, I believe I’ve tasted that hickory-smoked porter, and I think you’re right – it might have overwhelmed the dishes that night.

    Debbie


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