| Carol Stein Grows It Half of the Southern gardeners I know say growing garlic isn’t worth the trouble. The other half enjoy growing it and love the flavor of homegrown garlic. The split opinion might result from differences between the two types of garlic. Sativum or softneck garlic is the kind usually sold in grocery stores and the best choice for Southern gardens. Ophio or hardneck garlic grows best in northern climes and requires cutting the central stem (scape) before it flowers to achieve well-formed bulbs below ground. So softnecks are easier to grow. The softneck varieties Susanville and California Early adapt to a wide range of soils. Also, varieties that include Silverskin, Italian or Creole in the name are good candidates for Southern gardens. Hardneck varieties worth a try are Georgian Crystal and Italian Easy Peel. Growing conditions are the same for all varieties. Garlic requires a cold period for the roots to develop before tops emerge in early spring, so plant it between before the end of the year. Plant individual cloves (pointy ends up) in deep, rich, loamy, well-drained soil, in full sun. Plant them two inches deep and five inches apart. Excellent drainage is essential, so if your garden soil is questionable, grow garlic in containers. Use pots at least 20 inches wide and 16 inches deep. To prevent premature sprouting, apply a layer of composted mulch or straw after planting. When the weather warms up, pull the mulch away from the plants in the garden, and remove it from containers. Provide an inch of water weekly, but wait until green tops emerge in spring before gently working an organic fertilizer high in nitrogen into the soil around the plants. Purchase seed garlic cloves from mail order and online seed companies. If you want to try planting grocery store garlic, buy organically grown bulbs rather than the packaged brands. Supermarket garlic is sometimes sprayed with a growth inhibitor to prevent sprouting. A pound of garlic cloves usually yields about ten pounds of bulbs. To harvest, wait until at least half of the green leaves die back, dig the plants gently so the tops remain intact, tie bunches together loosely and hang to dry in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight. Debbie Moose Cooks It The first time I sampled locally grown garlic, I could tell a big difference between it and the supermarket heads. The homegrown garlic was moister, and stronger in flavor without being bitter. In Carol’s survey, I’d be on the side that believes growing your own is worth it. Varieties vary in pungency, but all small garlic will have that wonderful flavor. Then, there’s elephant garlic, which isn’t a true garlic but is related to leeks. Despite the size – heads are two or three times as large as conventional garlic – it’s actually milder in flavor. This is the garlic for people who don’t like garlic, since it’s mild and sweet. Do not refrigerate garlic and don’t purchase garlic that has been refrigerated – it will rot. Garlic should be stored in an open or ventilated container in a cool, dark place – I have a ceramic garlic keeper that has slashes for ventilation. Avoid soft or shriveled cloves. Keep the heads and papery covering intact until you need a clove or two, then peel. Most recipes require peeling the garlic before cooking with it. But if you’re cooking the cloves whole, as when roasting a whole head of garlic, it’s not necessary. Over-browning chopped or sliced garlic gives it a bitter flavor that permeates the entire dish you use it in. It takes no more than a minute on medium-high heat for chopped garlic to be lightly brown. Stop there, or just cook the garlic until it’s soft. There are few dishes, in my view, that can’t be improved by a bit of garlic. So, if a little is good, a lot must be great. That was my philosophy in coming up with this recipe for my cookbook “Wings: More Than 50 High-Flying Recipes for America’s Favorite Snack” (John Wiley & Sons, $16.95). Garlic, Glorious Garlic 3/4 cup chopped garlic 3 tablespoons finely chopped onion 1 tablespoon dried thyme, crushed 1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil 1 1/2 teaspoons white wine vinegar 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 3/4 teaspoon dried oregano 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 12 wings, cut in half at joints, wing tips removed and discarded In a small bowl, combine the garlic, onion, thyme, oil, vinegar, salt, oregano, and black pepper. Stir and mash until the ingredients are combined and a little like a paste. Place the wings in a resealable plastic bag. Pour in the garlic mixture and toss to coat the wings. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or as long as overnight. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Cover a rimmed baking sheet with foil and spray the foil with nonstick cooking spray. Remove the wings from the marinade and discard the marinade. Bake 20 to 30 minutes or until done Makes 24 pieces. From “Wings: More Than 50 High-Flying Recipes for America’s Favorite Snack” by Debbie Moose (John Wiley & Sons, $16.95)
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